The medium to dark ruby-colored 1999 Pinot Noir Freedom Hill Vineyard has rose, blackberry, and Asian spice aromas. Medium to full-bodied, muscular, and highly structured, it is packed with road tar, black cherries, and sweet cassis-like flavors. This is a firm, fruit-dominated wine that will require cellaring. Projected maturity: 2005-2011. Tel. (503) 472-8080

This huge, brooding wine is bound to be controversial. There’s nothing silky or elegant about it—yet. Muscular and broad-shouldered, it’s packed with massive pepper and berry fruit, and leaves the palate numb with tannins. It’s a must for mid- to long-term cellaring. ——S.H.(11/1/2001)—— 90