Dark cherry aromas are found in the nose of the chunky, somewhat firm 2003 Pinot Noir Freedom Hill. A jammy, plummy, black fruit-dominated effort, it is medium-bodied, impressively concentrated, and bursts with flavor yet is highly structured. Drink it between 2008 and 2014. www.panthercreekcellars.com; tel. (503) 472-8080

This excellent vineyard does not show its best stuff here. There’s good color, and a whiff of pleasant spice in the nose, but the back half is watery and carries an off, resiny character. ——P.G.(4/1/2007)—— 85