The 2005 Riesling Pfaffenberg Reserve represents a blend between the previous batch of Pfaffenberg and a second that was harvested later but retained significant residual sugar. The finished blend has twelve grams. (I was a bit less convinced by a corresponding “reserve” blend from Kogel.) The label displays the names of coats of arms of both Salomon and Metternich, whose vineyards in the Pfaffenberg the Salomons are now farming. Quince, honey, malt, and caramelized peach figure prominently on the nose and palate, but there is refreshing citricity that was missing from the corresponding Kogel. Rich and polished in overall impression and not too overtly sweet, it soothes and envelops in its finish, eschewing the grip or pungency of this year’s “regular” bottlings. Just as they did last year, the Salomons bottled one Riesling consisting of the collected botrytis material of the vintage, but I found it disappointingly bitter and juiceless. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Hochterrassen ($15.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Steinterassen ($17.00; 84 ), 2005 Riesling Kogel Reserve ($39.00; 86+?).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300