Kerpen’s 2006 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett on the other hand does indeed evince delicacy. “Don’t ask why my sweet wines managed this sort of delicacy in 2006,” says Kerpen. “I don’t know. But something about my cellar techniques must have been well suited to botrytis, because the wines aren’t laden down with it.” Apple blossom and vanilla aromatics usher in a perfect picture of Sonnenuhr slate, apple, nut oils, and vanilla on the palate. The finish is wafting, but far from erratic or short-lived. It sticks to the theme announced on the label and just keeps playing. This excellent value should be worth following for 12-15 years. Martin Kerpen and his vines had a hard act to follow after their successes in 2005 but were more than up to the task, confirming the hypothesis that these always excellent wines have crossed a new quality threshold. Still, the last place I would have imagined 2006s keeping pace was in the range of trocken. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300