Apple, fresh lime and vanilla in the nose of Kerpen’s 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett lead to a surprisingly citric, bright palate, yet there is subtle creaminess of texture that – along with the wine’s sheer levity – render it almost incongruously delicious in a manner possible only with German Riesling Kabinett. At 9.5% alcohol, this is less light (in theory at least) than most of today’s sweet Mosel Kabinetts, but by that same token, it’s sweetness is, happily, judicious and perfectly integrated. This excellent value should remain delightful for the better part of two decades.Martin Kerpen’s 2009 collection Rieslings possess uncommon brightness for their vintage, and he continues to excel across a blessedly broad stylistic range, from legally trocken through nobly sweet – and, more importantly, with plenty of successful stops in-between. It’s worth noting that Kerpen is especially keen on the quality of his nobly sweet 2009s – wines that are certainly close to off-the-charts on paper – although as readers can see, my praise for them is more selective.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300