Saturated purple in color; this Sangiovese-Cabernet-Merlot blend is heavily oaked, so much so that it hints at popcorn. Beyond the wood, however, are notes of root beer and smoked meat. The palate has some hard tannins and the oak is once again strong; it literally takes on a buttery flavor. The finish is the best part: It’s all about thick black fruit. ——M.S.(8/1/2002)—— 88