The estate's 2006 Modus (50% Sangiovese, 25% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon) is a round, supple wine with good intensity and balance in its jammy dark fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2013. These new releases from Ruffino stand out for a style that aims for extreme concentration and intensity. Once again I get the sense the estate is simply trying too hard and that the wines might benefit from an easing off of the accelerator. Importer: Icon Estates, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-7111

This is an opulent, dense and well-priced blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from Tuscany with rich aromas of black fruit, spice, chocolate, leather and pipe tobacco. You could pair this pretty wine with red meat or oven-roasted pasta. ——M.L.(7/1/2010)—— 90