The 2008 Vareij is a quirky but fun dry Brachetto loaded with typical notes of red berries, sweet medicinal herbs and spices, all of which come together in a plump, juicy style. This is a wonderful effort from Hilberg-Pasquero. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. The small Roero estate of Annette Hilberg and Michele Pasquero is one of my favorite sources for pure, hand-crafted wines that highlight the unique qualities of this terroir. The estate’s Barbera d’Alba Superiore is often one of the region’s finest, as it is again this year.Importer: Vignaioli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 686-3095