The 2009 Vareij is flat-out beautiful. Sweet herbs, juicy cherries, flowers and minerals are just some of the nuances that emerge from this soft, caressing red. Vareij, a dry Brachetto, will always be a somewhat quirky offering, but readers with an open mind and palate will find much to admire in this impeccably polished, round wine. A pure, crystalline finish leaves a lasting impression. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. Hilberg-Pasquero is one of my favorite wineries in Roero. The wines are made with a natural, non-interventionalist approach in both the vineyards and cellar. As a result, there can be some variation in quality from vintage to vintage, but at their best these are some of the most unique reds readers will come across. Importer: Vignaioli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 686-3095