Smells of black pepper, smoke and pastry crust. On the palate, yes, it’s woody—smoky rather than caramel-sweet, though—with tight plum and briary earth underneath. This score reflects my expectation that more of the fruit will come to the fore in a couple of years; try again in 2006. Imported by Southcorp Wines.——D.T.(8/1/2005)—— 90