Altesino's two sensational 1990 Brunellos, the Brunello di Montalcino and the Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli, offer intense perfumes of jammy cherry fruit, tobacco, smoke, herbs, and licorice, immense richness and extraction of flavor, full body, and gobs of glycerin and alcohol. The single vineyard Montosoli possesses a thicker, richer texture, more depth and length, and a slightly more focused personality. Both can be drunk today, but promise to evolve for 10-20 years. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620