The 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Hickinbotham Vineyard is the most backward and Pauillac-like of this trio. Its inky/purple color is followed by gorgeous aromas of cedar, black currant liqueur, flowers, licorice, and a notion of new oak in the background. This full-throttle, powerful, concentrated, well-delineated Cabernet Sauvignon should be at its finest between 2010-2025. Importer: Commonwealth Wine & Spirits Inc., Mansfield, MA; tel. (508) 328-6764

This wine deserves plenty of adjectives: excellent and sexy among them. It’s also a burly wine, somehow less classy and refined than the best of them. Its plum fruit has a stewy, barbecued spiciness to it, and it’s big and brawny on the palate. Fans whose mantra is “bigger is better” will likely ratchet my score up a few points. Imported by Commonwealth Wine & Spirits Inc. ——D.T.(8/1/2005)—— 90