If the Sandown represents this estate’s Mouton and the Brookman their Lafite, the even more backward, tannic, ageworthy, inky/blue/purple-colored 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Hickinbotham is their Latour. Made from 50-year-old vines planted on rocky, shale-based soils, it offers up aromas of creme de cassis, graphite, chocolate, coffee, and tobacco leaves. This powerful, rich, full-bodied effort needs at least 4-5 years of cellaring, and should keep for two decades or more. It is one of the few Clarendon Hills wines to be aged in 100% new French oak. None of these cuvees is fined or filtered. Importer: Wine Brokers Unlimited, tel. (866) 416-9463

Of Clarendon Hills’ three Cabs, this one is generally considered the flagship. This vintage, the Hickinbotham is a darker, more brooding sort of Cab than the other two, with drying, tealike tannins in the mouth and bramble aromas. In spite of its dark profile, it’s not oversized or overoaked. Shows good length on the finish. Drink now–2012. ——D.T.(10/1/2006)—— 91