The most backward and structured of the Cabernet offerings is the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Hickinbotham Vineyard sourced from 50-year-old vines. It is a glass-coating opaque purple with complex aromas of new oak, smoke, espresso roast, chocolate, blackberry, and black currant. Full-bodied, opulent and intensely flavored, the wine has great depth and enough structure to permit a decade of evolution. This lengthy effort should provide pleasure through 2035. Importer: E. & J. Gallo Winery, Modesto, CA; www.clarendonhills.com.au

At this young age, the oak is still not quite integrated, showing itself as smoky, bacony notes on the nose. But there’s plenty of concentrated cassis fruit and this wine should settle down rapidly, yet remain drinkable through 2020. It’s full bodied and tannic, but plush and nearly approachable even now. Imported by Wine Brokers Unlimited.——J.C.(10/1/2008)—— 92