The 2005 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Kabinett trocken is a fine example of the distinctive style of this winery as well as of how good even a “l(fā)esser” bottling can be. One could quibble with Philippi’s calling “Kabinett” a wine of 11.5% alcohol, but in fact – a like a number of recent examples at this address – the wine does not lack for a certain delicacy. A lovely nose of plum distillate, corn mash, and ginger, leads to a glossy, juicy palate with notes of salt, resin, ginger, and bitter plum pit as well accenting the ester-rich fruit. The ringing clarity, spicy, saline, subtly chalky finish shows real lift and liveliness. Employ this wine at table over the next 3-5 years and (if you aren’t yet familiar with the virtues of Koehler-Rupprecht Riesling) you’ll wonder where this versatile style of Riesling has been all your life. I’m just worried that soon we shall all be lamenting its disappearance. (And if you think this is good, you should taste the 2001 today!) Bernd Philippi is making plans to sell his winery – as has long been expected given there is no one to inherit it – and says he has found a suitable buyer. Details – including all of those for which lovers of Koehler-Rupprecht wines (which seem inseperable from the person of Bernd Philippi) are waiting with baited breath – have yet to materialize. It has always been difficult to cover Koehler-Rupprecht Riesling in the context of a vintage report, because the dry wines are seldom released for at least a full year after already late bottling, the top examples are released years later as “R” or “RR” reserves. When I sat down with Philippi in August, 2007 we as usual tasted through a range of wines including many long ago sold-out, but what follows are notes on a few favorite or still upcoming releases. Unperturbed by the botrytis of the vintage, his 2005s are proving to be almost consistently outstanding. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300