The Glantenay 2008 Volnay Santenots – representing around a one-third crop shortfall due to hail – marries aromas of ripe blackberry and cassis (and their distilled equivalents) with notes of damp forest floor, comes to the palate firmly tannic as well as bright, and finishes with tart fruit persistence and peppery pungency. This manages to narrowly avoid the negative synergy of tannin and tart acids to which many 2008s succumb, but it is a close-enough call that if I were going to cellar some, I’d think along the lines of 6-8 years and monitor bottles regularly along the way. Young Thierry Glantenay – whom I met for the first time this March – has the luck to have inherited old vines acquired or planted by his grandfather in some of the most prestigious sites of Volnay, Pommard, and Puligny, and is applying to them evident care and intelligence, given which facts it isn’t surprising – even though it was news to me – that his cellar is a superb source of Burgundy. Glantenay’s finished 2008s are in the low-13s of alcoholic percentage, having for the most part been boosted by one-half to one degree. All of them were in tank when I tasted, and none were due to be filtered at bottling, although the village Volnay, Caillerets, and Rugiens had been lightly “pre-filtered” to deal with what Glantenay deemed excess turbidity. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville , PA; tel. (610) 486-0800