The 2009 Pinot Noir Pommard Clone is one of the more subdued wines in this lineup. It comes across as a touch linear, with pretty scents of sweet tobacco and spices that add complexity to the fruit. This is already a bit forward, and looks to be a relatively early maturing wine. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. This line up from Fess Parker is impressive. A number of the higher-end wines are delicious, but I was most struck by the quality of several of the estate’s entry-level offerings. These are some of the very finest values in California. Tel. (800) 841-1104; www.fessparker.com

Feels rustic in the mouth, with hard tannins that pinch the palate. The raspberry and cherry fruit is ripe and dry, accented with bright acidity. Those tough tannins suggest a few years in the cellar, although this is not a wine for the long haul.——S.H.(12/1/2011)—— 87