An appellation, and a tiny one at that, that is starting to make some noise over the high quality of dry whites emerging from it is St.-Peray, just across the Rhone River from the city of Valence. Light gold in color, which seems to suggest far more evolution than the taste, Colombo’s 2004 St.-Peray La Belle de Mai is crisp, elegant, and shows notes of a rose garden in the spring, excellent fruit, medium body, and a good, spicy finish. Drink it over the next several years. The well-known consulting oenologist in the Rhone Valley, Jean-Luc Colombo, has an ever-expanding negociant business for his wines. With the exception of his three estate wines of Cornas, all of the other wines listed are negociant bottlings. He is a talented winemaker and that is evidenced in his whites. Importer: Palm Bay Imports, Boca Raton, Fl; tel. (561) 362-9642