Unusually low yields (particularly for Chardonnay), a warm growing season, and a notoriously late harvest all combined to fashion an unbelievably dense, ultra-ripe, and massive 1997 Meursault Charmes. Not made for the faint-hearted, or those that crave elegance and delineation, this butterscotch, tropical fruit, and spice-scented offering is pure unadulterated decadence. Presently its flavor profile, packed with richly-textured layers of pureed quince, apricots, peaches, honeysuckle, and minerals, has a candied lime element that brings some freshness to this otherwise mouth-coating gem. My inclination is to believe that this example of awe-inspiring ripeness will not sustain extended cellaring, but who cares? Anticipated maturity: now-2004. Bravo! Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel (610) 932-2745.