High-toned pear distillate, pineapple, lemon oil, and toasted wheat mark the nose of Jobard’s 2006 Meursault Charmes. Offering palpably high extract and a slightly tart citricity, this coats the palate with satisfyingly ripe peach and citrus – at once expansive and vibrant – and finishes with superb refreshment, interplay, and length. It looks to be a good candidate for at least 6-8 years’ cellaring. Remi Jobard began harvesting September 25 – two days later than even Francois and Antoine Jobard – yet the two collections are dramatically different. These wines – which display uniformly prominent acidity – came out of barrel (generally 12-15% new) after a year, and were then given six months in tank (whence I tasted them) to permit stabilization and some evolution and, in Jobard’s words, “to preserve aromatic freshness and vivacity.” There are hints of botrytis here and there, but Jobard insists it was at a level of around 5%, in his opinion obviating any need to remove it. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800.