A few wine writers have recently written that some producers in Burgundy are making Pinot Noir that resembles Syrah. My impression is that highly extracted, late-picked, and lavishly oaked Pinot Noir does in fact show traits of Syrah in its youth. Both varietals have a tendency to contain high acid levels (relative to Merlot and Cabernet) and often exhibit berry fruit characteristics. Philippe Leclerc's dynamite Gevrey-Chambertin Combe Aux Moines certainly could be confused with a northern Rhone wine during its early stage of development. Readers who love Cote Rotie and Hermitage will adore it. Dark-colored, almost black, and revealing an awesomely dense, ripe, deep, nose of cassis, mocha, spices and oak, this monster of a wine explodes in the mouth with rich, layered, roasted black fruits. Full-bodied and thick, with a hard tannic backbone, it indeed reminds me more of a young Syrah (but without the typical raspberry and red currant notes) than what I generally taste in Burgundy.This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. The wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. Pinot Noir, a fragile varietal, reacts poorly to fining, filtration, and careless bottling techniques, I recommend caution when considering buying a red burgundy based on cask samples. I called it as I tasted it, and hope the bottled wine reflects the quality of the samples I was provided.Philippe Leclerc's wines are not for the faint hearted! Readers must been forewarned ... these are dense, black, super-concentrated, TANNIC, backward, rugged, wines that demand to be cellared. Generally they tend to be preferred by lovers of big Cabernets than by those wanting elegant, supple Pinot Noirs. Along with his brother Rene and Christian Serafin, Philippe Leclerc is the latest picker in Gevrey. Always aged in 100% new oak, sometimes for upwards of three years, Leclerc's wines are never fined or filtered. Expect these wines to be long lived and to throw a substantial sediment.An Alain Corcia Selection (French Fax # 011-33-3-80-22-71-46), importers include Southern Wines & Spirits in California.
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