Slightly more expensive than the 1990 Crianza, but still an outstanding value, is Sierra Cantabria's 1987 Reserva Rioja. Made from 90% Tempranillo and 10% Garnacha, this succulently-styled Rioja possesses moderately intense new oak in the nose as well as a whiff of lead pencil, loads of ripe red and black fruits, a tasty, medium to full-bodied, velvety-textured palate, excellent concentration, and a clean, well-defined finish. It should drink well for 4-5 years. All of the offerings from Bodegas Sierra Cantabria reviewed in this issue are best buys! For the record, I also tasted two more expensive, older vintages of Sierra Cantabria Riojas. Both the 1985 Reserva Rioja ($17.00) and the 1982 Rioja Gran Reserva ($25.00) exhibited a musty note in the nose. Importer: Jorge Ordonez 39 Constance Road, West Roxbury, MA 02132; telephone (617) 327-1613; telefax (617) 323-0455. I am delighted to note that Jorge Ordonez is one of only a handful of wine importers who exclusively uses reefer (refrigerated) containers for shipment of all his wines.