Fourteen months after being harvested at 14.5% natural potential alcohol on September 30, 1997, the 1997 Montrachet was still slowly fermenting (it still had 3 grams of sugar). Neither Martin Prieur (the estate's director) or Nadine Goublin (Rodet's winemaker) appeared to be concerned about the abnormal length of time the conversion of the sugars to alcohol was taking. On the contrary, they were ecstatic about the complexity and depth this glacially-paced fermentation would impart to their Montrachet. This is a spectacular wine, with dense aromatics of flower blossoms, minerals, anise, spices, apples, and apricots. The palate revealed some CO2 (quite normal during fermentation and extended lees contact), yet its sheer power, complexity, concentration, and expansiveness were mind-boggling. Its explosive personality, loaded with tropical fruits, buttered toast, allspice, poached pears, and currants, is surprisingly fresh and structured given its corpulence. It is a full-bodied, mouth-coating, elegant, and formidably long wine. Wow!
Imported by William Deutsch and Sons, Armonk, NY; Tel. (914) 273-1221.