The 2006 Pregio del Conte is Montepulciano and Aglianico aged in a combination of French oak. It is the ripest of these offerings. Sweet, open aromatics lead to a soft-textured expression of super-ripe dark red fruits spices and toasted oak. Made in a voluptuous late-harvest style, this wine offers excellent length if not quite the balance of the estate’s finest wines. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010. I was very impressed with Saladini Pilastri, particularly considering that last year the wines were all over the place in terms of quality. The Marche remains one of the least-known regions in Italy, so readers can drink all the way up to the top bottlings here while spending less than $25 a bottle. Importer: Michelangelo Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 699-7021 Importer: The Charmer Sunbelt Group, NY, NY; tel. (212) 699-7021