This red wine from Saladini Pilastri offers a robust and dense fruit profile, making it more of a meat wine than a pasta wine. The 2015 Pregio del Conte is a blend of equal parts Aglianico and Montepulciano (aged in French Allier barrique for a slow 24 months). It benefits from some of the northernmost Aglianico farmed in Italy, and this already-tannic grape offers pronounced firmness and backbone in this expression from warm-climate Marche. That's why you need a hearty meat dish on the table across from a glass of this wine. There is a point of astringency here, and succulent meat would soften it. Some 15,000 bottles were made.