A top-notch example of Crozes, Darnaud's 2017 Crozes Hermitage Au Fil du Temps comes from older vines in Pont de l'Isère and Roche de Glun. Complex savory notes of smoke, meat and black olives mark the nose, while the palate is medium to full-bodied, earthy, velvety and rich, finishing long and ripe, framed by soft, dusty tannins. It has a decade of good drinking ahead of it.