As I indicated last year, this estate’s sleeper selection is their 2007 Pignan Chateauneuf du Pape, a 100% Grenache from sandy soils. This offering, aged totally in old foudres and demi-muids, includes some of the declassified Rayas lots, and the 2007 is the finest Pignan since the 1990. A medium ruby color is followed by explosive aromas of sweet kirsch, lavender, licorice, and earth. The wine hits the palate with a blast of fruit and glycerin, full body, and an ethereal lightness and elegance that are remarkable for a wine of such intense fruit. A great effort, it may merit an even higher score after a few years in the bottle. Enjoy it over the next 12-15 years. 2007 may be Emmanuel Reynaud’s greatest vintage since he took over the management of this estate when his uncle, Jacques Reynaud, died in 1997.Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

A very silky, perfumy style, with an old-school edge of sage, mint and tobacco to the core of mulled cherry and red currant fruit. The silky finish lets a shiso leaf edge linger nicely, with fresh acidity underneath. Drink now through 2021. 200 cases imported. -JM