There are about 500 cases of the 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Pignan, a gloriously decadent, hedonistic style of Chateauneuf du Pape with oodles of kirsch liqueur intermixed with licorice, lavender, spice box, and earth. Full-bodied and fleshy, this medium ruby-colored wine is a gorgeous expression of Grenache that is surprisingly supple for the vintage and very long. It should drink beautifully for 12-15 years. This great estate has been going through a transitional period, with some replanting in their vineyards, and of course the enormous challenge of replacing the legendary proprietor and winemaker, the late Jacques Reynaud, who passed away in the winter of 1997. Replaced by his nephew Emmanuel Reynaud, who had worked closely with his uncle, the early vintages, as I reported on in this publication, were good but hardly exciting. Reason to be concerned about the direction in which the estate was going was a legitimate worry. The 1998, 1999, and 2000 vintages were vintages where Rayas was well behind the pack of top producers in Chateauneuf du Pape. However, with that said, the tasting I did with Emmanuel Reynaud in late August was the best tasting I have done with him in a decade, and while it may be premature to say that Rayas is back to the greatness of Jacques Reynaud, Emmanuel has made some fabulous wines that are going to be released over the next several years.Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

Very elegant and high-toned, with red cherry, herb and sandalwood notes leading the way for a racy palate of mineral, crushed cherry, red licorice and floral flavors that gain depth through the finish. Long and very stylish. Drink now through 2023. 650 cases made. -JM