Tasted from magnum, the 1996 Meursault Charmes was an absolute delight. No premature oxidation here; the nose has developed attractive notes of walnut, smoke and a touch of dried orange peel that gains intensity with aeration. The palate is very well balanced with a taut line of acidity. There is a very agreeable citric attack verging on bitterness that just adds tension and vivacity. At almost 20-years old, this is a pertinent reminder how one can be rewarded by great white Burgundy.