The 1998 Meursault Charmes, the product of 25 hectoliters per hectare yields, was described by Matrot as "the finest Charmes I have ever made." Its spicy, mineral aromatics lead to a broad, intense, and powerful, medium-bodied character. Assorted flowers, honeysuckle, and acacia blossoms are intermingled with lemons and crisp pears in this superbly focused, elegant, and nuanced wine. Concentrated, possessing outstanding depth of fruit, and an admirably long, citrus finish, this is undoubtedly one of the finest premier crus fashioned in the 1998 vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2007. Importer for Domaine Joseph Matrot: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802. Importer for Domaine Pierre Matrot: Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel (212) 572-7725.