The 2001 TINTO, focused and powerful, is a creature of its vintage. Its fruit is restrained, but the wine is tightly wound, and not fully ready to drink, although approachable. This will never be the sexy wine that the ’03 and ’04 are, but it is worthy in its own right, precise as well as tasty. Drink now-2017. Importer: W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Harrison, N.Y.; tel: (914) 251-3209.

The second wine of Quinta do Vale Meao is inevitably much less powerful than the estate wine. It has ripe, earthy fruit, with flavors of spices and warm, southern herbs. The tannins are there, but only serve to balance the wine’s immediate drinkability.——R.V.(11/1/2004)—— 87