The 2008 TINTO, the winery’s flagship label, is a blend of Touriga Nacional (55%), Touriga Franca (30%), Tinta Roriz (10%) and Tinta Barroca (5%). Ethereal, showing its oak a bit too much in its youth, and reminding me just a little of fine Rioja, this seems otherwise and remarkably graceful early on, a wine that has a Burgundian feel in the mid-palate. It has that stereotypical iron-fist-in-velvet-glove demeanor, too, as it packs quite a powerful punch underneath the initially elegant and oaky demeanor. The oak should integrate with time, but make no mistake about it, there is a lot more here than oak and this wine has a lot of upside; as with a lot of 2008s, it just may not all be apparent early on. Drink 2012-2028. Importer: W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Harrison, N.Y.; tel: (914) 251-3209.

Meandro, named after the horseshoe bend on the Douro that surrounds the Vale Meao vineyard, is the second wine from this quinta. In its own right, it is a fine wine, solidly based around smooth, rich black berry fruits and spice. Age for 5–6 years at least. ——R.V.(4/1/2011)—— 91