When I saw Rene Leclerc in September he expressed his disappointment that he no longer had an American importer. What a shame! He has produced two superb wines in 1990 and the remainder of his portfolio is sound. The star is the thrilling Gevrey-Chambertin-Combe Aux Moines. The huge nose of sweet black fruits, coffee, mushrooms, and tar is followed by a rich, expansive-flavored wine with a viscous texture, superb length, and 10-15 years of cellaring potential. All of Rene Leclerc's wines are bottled with no filtration.