An attractive, well made, modern-styled wine, La Poderina's closed 1990 Brunello needs another 5-6 years of cellaring. It exhibits a healthy deep ruby color, a spicy, leathery, cedar, and black-cherry-scented nose, ripe, medium to full-bodied flavors, and a rich, pure finish. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620