The Batard-Montrachet-like 2006 Chardonnay Gamble Ranch reveals poached pear, creme brulee, brioche, honeysuckle, hazelnut, smoke, and tropical fruit characteristics in its big, full-bodied, well-balanced personality. Ed Sbragia, the highly renowned winemaker at Beringer, has settled into his own operation, producing just over 5,000 cases of reds and whites that focus on Sbragia’s strengths, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. He is also experimenting with small quantities of Zinfandel and Sauvignon Blanc.Tel. (866) 222-4342

This is a massive, powerful Chardonnay, a New World style that’s superripe and heavily oaked. You either like it or you don’t. Aficionados of this approach will love the opulence of the honey, pineapple jam, apricot, creme brulee, vanilla and buttercream flavors. Calls for very rich dishes, like lobster.——S.H.(4/1/2009)—— 92