Sportoletti's compelling, unfiltered 1999 Villa Fidelia (a 1,400 case cuvee made from 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Cabernet Franc) is undoubtedly the super-star of this area. Its dense ruby/purple color is accompanied by gorgeous aromas of blackberries, cassis, espresso, chocolate, and a touch of smoke. There is fabulous concentration, full body, great precision as well as purity, and a long, 45-second finish. Displaying an overall sense of elegance and gracefulness despite its depth and richness, this prodigious effort can be drunk now and over the next 14 years. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620