From an extremely difficult vintage, the 2003 Gigondas (two-thirds Grenache and one-third Mourvedre and Syrah) has more in common with a lighter-styled Pinot Noir than a muscular Gigondas. It is nicely balanced, but hardly inspirational. Marcel and Philippe Guigal, never content to rest on their already impressive credentials, announced that in the future, they expect to release another single vineyard Cote Rotie from a 3.7 acre parcel in the Viria vineyard on the Cote Brune. The first vintage or two will probably be added to the Chateau d’Ampuis. If the potential turns out to be as exceptional as they believe, lovers of these great wines will have a fourth single vineyard Cote Rotie called Viria to contemplate.There are many admirable things about Marcel Guigal, but most significant is that he has been a qualitative locomotive that has brought attention to the Rhone Valley, and has raised the quality bar for the entire region. More importantly, he realizes that most consumers will have access only to his least expensive wines from the Cotes du Rhone, so he has made every effort to continue to increase the quality of both his white and red Cotes du Rhones. His Cotes du Rhone whites have jumped in quality as he has settled on a general blend of approximately 50% Viognier and the rest Roussanne, Marsanne, Clairette, Bourboulenc, and Grenache Blanc. Importer: Fred Ek and Patrick Will, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153

Mature, but in no danger of senility, Guigal’s 2003 Gigondas is a full-bodied, creamy-textured wine that reflects the ripeness of the vintage. Garrigue and leather notes accent black cherries, while the long, spicy finish adds hints of coffee and caramel. Drink now–2010. ——J.C.(11/15/2006)—— 90