The disappointing 2005 Pichon Lalande reveals a much lighter style than one expects from this estate. However, the new owners, the Louis Roederer/Deutz champagne firm, have recently brought in Hubert de Bouard (from St.-Emilion) as a consultant, and the 2006 appears to be a dramatic improvement over the 2005. For all its greatness, Pichon Lalande previously experienced hiccups in superb vintages, 1990 being a prime example. While good, in the context of the vintage, the 2005 is unimpressive. A blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, and 7% Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this deep ruby-colored effort exhibits a slightly herbaceous nose revealing hints of roasted coffee, cedar wood, cherries, and black currants. Good acidity and elevated tannins give the wine a streamlined, medium-bodied, fresh taste. Anticipated maturity: now-2020.

The 2005 Pichon Lalande, with its aromatics of cassis, forest floor and earth are followed by a medium-bodied wine that doesn’t have quite the length and richness the aromatics suggest. Nevertheless, it is medium-bodied, elegant, and pure, and a classic example for this chateau. Drink it now as well as over the next 15 or so years. It is showing better than my earlier notes suggest.

Quite austere, firm Cabernet Sauvignon nose. Fresh with bright fruit. Not very plump but medium weight and balanced.