One of the finest wines produced in this freakish year, the 2003 Clos de la Roche, with its medium to dark ruby color, is also one of the darkest offerings produced at Domaine Leroy in the vintage. Its boisterous aromatics exhibit scents of red cherries, roses, bacon, meat, and violets. Full-bodied and intense, this awesomely deep, ample effort is concentrated, lush, harmonious, and stunningly long in the finish. Crammed with candied dark fruits, it reveals impeccably ripe, sweet tannin. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2020. Represented by Leroy, Inc., San Rafael, CA; tel. 415-457-4811, various importers, including Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400; Stacole Imports, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (800) 741-7791; Lauber Imports, Somerville, NJ; tel. (908) 725-2100; and MacArthur Beverages, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 338-1433