Notes of sweet berries, spices, orange rind, rose petals and loamy soil, framed by a deft patina of new oak, introduce Leroy's 2018 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, a full-bodied, rich and concentrated wine that's muscular and fleshy, with a tightly wound core, powdery tannins and a long, penetrating finish. Like the Clos de Vougeot, this is another of the portfolio's habitually more reserved wines that is—comparatively speaking—unusually demonstrative this year.