The parcel that informs a 2005 Clos de la Roche touches Leroy’s Combottes. This wine smells of resin, tobacco, incense, roasted meats, wood smoke, wet stones, alongside stewed cherries and rhubarb. Roasted and stewy richness characterize the intimate meld of meat and fruit on the palate as well. For sheer density this is incredibly impressive, but it’s not at all lacking in the kinetic department, either. What is lacking is the perfume or pure clarity of fruit that the best of this collection display. Almost frighteningly gripping in the back (or on the way down, should you dare to swallow!) with an implosive display of meatiness and stony minerality, this will surely need years to reveal its full potential. Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400