Baked cherries, violets, and stones are found in the aromatics of the medium-to-dark ruby-colored 1997 Corton. This is a chewy, extracted, masculine wine armed with loads of black fruits to combat its firm structure. Its highly impressive intensity of flavor, concentration, and exuberance are enough to dominate its gobs of sweet tannins. Projected maturity: 2002-2009. Importer: Clicquot, Inc., New York, NY; tel (212) 888-7575.

A very nice red, showing a ripe purity of black fruit, a smooth texture, supple tannins and a lingering finish. Drink now through 2007. -PM