Phelps' Syrah, which originates from vineyard holdings in Yountville, is aged primarily in French oak, of which 20% is new. The gorgeous, dense ruby/purple-colored 1997 Vin du Mistral Syrah offers sweet blackberry and cassis flavors with a touch of spice and pepper. Full-bodied, deep, lush, voluptuously-textured as well as seductive, it should drink well for 7-8 years. Tel. (707) 963-2745; Fax (707) 963-4831

A blend of six Rhone grapes. It’s lush and plush. A lot of sun-baked black fruit here and virtually no edge to speak of. In fact, it’s almost too friendly. Aromas of graham crackers and a clear flavor of chocolate make for an interesting drink.——M.S.(2/1/2000)—— 91