The dark ruby-colored 1999 Le Mistral is extremely Cotes du Rhone-like with its notes of crushed pepper, black cherries, berries, spice box, and dried Provencal herbs. Soft, seductive, and perfumed, this delicious bistro-styled red will have many admirers. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. Fortunately, there are 6,500 cases. Tel. (707) 963-2745

Always balanced and elegant, this blend of six Rhone grapes seems drier than usual, a bit more tannic and less fruity than in past years. That makes it a "food wine," and a very nice one at that. It won't hit you in the head with size, but it's a classy stylish addition to the table.——S.H.(12/15/2001)—— 88