A firm, rustic wine, the 2002 Beaune Greves Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus (domaine) lacks the hedonistic jammy fruit and supple personalities of Bouchard’s other 2002 Beaunes. Light to medium-bodied, it displays brambleberries and blackberries in a bright, foursquare character. This wine will need to soften and blossom to ultimately merit a score in the upper eighties. Projected maturity: 2006-2011. Importer: Clicquot, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 888-7575

A firm, rustic wine, the 2002 Beaune Greves Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus (domaine) lacks the hedonistic jammy fruit and supple personalities of Bouchard’s other 2002 Beaunes. Light to medium-bodied, it displays brambleberries and blackberries in a bright, foursquare character. This wine will need to soften and blossom to ultimately merit a score in the upper eighties. Projected maturity: 2006-2011. Importer: Clicquot, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 888-7575

A fine, concentrated, opulent wine with a pure, ripe heart. There are some toasty aromas and the palate is firm, with pure fruits and wood flavors. ——R.V.(9/1/2004)—— 92