The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is awesome. This finessed, regal Brunello flows onto the palate with seamless layers of perfumed fruit framed by silky, finessed tannins. The wine remains extremely primary at this stage, and its full range of aromas and flavors have yet to emerge, but the sheer pedigree of this Brunello is unmistakable. The elegant, refined finish lasts an eternity, and subtle notes of menthol, spices, licorice and leather add final notes of complexity. The estate’s 2004 Brunello is a wine to buy and bury in the deepest corner of the cellar. Brunello is never inexpensive, but this is the real deal, and in relative terms, it is one of the world’s great values in fine, cellar worthy wine. Incredibly, there are 18,000+ cases of the 2004 Brunello, so it should be fairly easy to source in various markets. The Brunello is made from four vineyards ranging from 250 to 400 meters in altitude, all in Sant’Angelo in Colle. The wines from the various vineyards were aged separately in French oak casks prior to being assembled and bottled. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2034. I was completely blown away by the wines I tasted from Il Poggione this year. Readers who want to experience first-class Sangiovese from Montalcino won’t want to miss these exceptional wines. Winemaker Fabrizio Bindocci and his team have done an exceptional job for which they deserve all the praise in the world.Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604 8900

Has blackberry and coffee bean, with a hint of cream on the nose. Full-bodied and tight, with slightly austere and chewy tannins, but there is pretty, ripe fruit underneath it all. Best after 2010. 16,665 cases made. -JS

High quality and easy availability (more than 17,000 cases are made) make this Brunello a sure bet for consumers who love the rich tastes of Tuscany. The wine boasts an immediate and intense delivery of blackberry, cedar and pressed blue flowers. It has natural denseness and firmness that fuel a long and satisfying finish.——M.L.(6/1/2009)—— 92