The dense purple 2007 Perigee Seven Hills Vineyard Estate is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Franc aged for 22 months in 40% new French oak. It presents a nose of pain grille, pencil lead, mineral, violets, black currant, and blackberry leading to a wine with superb volume and concentration, impeccable balance and loads of savory black fruits. It will easily evolve for 5-7 years and provide prime drinking from 2015 to 2027. L’Ecole No. 41, under the leadership of Marty Clubb, is one of Walla Walla’s pioneers, the third modern day winery in the Valley. Over the years the winery has prospered, outgrown the namesake schoolhouse, and now is about to outgrow the charming label which may have contributed to its fame. Be that as it may, L’Ecole now produces about 35,000 cases with distribution in all 50 states and abroad. Despite the expansion, quality has remained consistently excellent as has pricing, no doubt the main reason why L’Ecole seems to have survived the recession without too much pain. Tel. (509) 525-0940; www.lecole.com

Tart and leafy, this is still resolving into a fully integrated wine. It already shows balance and depth, with a mix of plum, fig, black cherry and cassis fruit, a streak of sweet chocolate and hints of baking spice. From a great vintage, this has the balance and stuffing to age, but if you can’t keep your hands off it, decant.——P.G.(12/1/2010)—— 92