The 2008 Seven Hills Vineyard Estate Perigree is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, with the balance Malbec and Petit Verdot aged for 22 months in 40% new French oak. It is an elegant, complex offering without the depth and concentration of the Seven Hills Cabernet described above. Nevertheless, it offers up plenty of savory, tasty fruit and enough structure to blossom for another 2-3 years. It will be at its best from 2013 to 2023. L’Ecole No. 41, under the leadership of Marty Clubb, is one of Walla Walla’s pioneers, the third modern day winery in the Valley. Over the years the winery has prospered, outgrown the namesake schoolhouse, and has now outgrown the charming label which may have contributed to its fame. Be that as it may, L’Ecole now produces about 35,000 cases with distribution in all 50 states and abroad. Despite the expansion, quality has remained consistently excellent as has pricing. Tel. (509) 525-0940; www.lecole.com

A five-grape Bordeaux-style blend from old vines, this has fruit that is almost ephemeral. Brambly raspberry fruit and a mineral-driven core, spiked by citrusy acidity, create a penetrating, elegant wine that finishes with a hint of pickle barrel. ——P.G.(11/1/2011)—— 90