La Conseillante, a quintessentially elegant, plump, fruit-driven wine (it can even have a Burgundian character in vintages such as 1989 and 1990), has turned out an open-knit, seductive wine in the generally tough-textured, tannic year of 1996. The color is a deep ruby. The wine possesses medium body, and a sweet, open-knit nose of black raspberries intermixed with pain grille, licorice, and smoke. Soft, round, and charming, this terroir's raspberry fruit is well-displayed. This 1996 can be drunk, but should keep nicely for 12-15 years. Anticipated maturity: now-2014.