A multitude of aromas and flavors flow from the 2003 Barolo Bussia Rocche, a wine that is unusually precise and detailed for the vintage. Its expression tends towards a darker shade of fruit than the Mariondino, with balsamic overtones and suggestions of spices, herbs, tobacco and new leather that build in the glass. The richness and depth of fruit are deftly balanced by the French oak. This is a terrific effort from Marco Parusso. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898

Marco Parusso’s 2000 Barolo Bussia Vigna Rocche reveals lovely intensity in its red fruit, tobacco, cedar and dried flowers. It is a soft, delicate Barolo, yet there is enough vibrancy and depth to the fruit to make me think it can be drunk now or held for another 3-5 years. Despite some elements of fragility, the Rocche has aged gracefully. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2016.